Visited Segovia yesterday, just half an hour by train from Madrid. When the bus from the train station approached the old city, everyone was immediately struck by the grand Roman aqueduct running across the public square. The aqueduct also ran underground to the castle.
At the museum of contemporary arts, I saw the show of Esteban Vicente's works. Born in Turégano, Spain, he studied art in Madrid, remarking on his experience at the Academy: "It doesn't give you any ideas about anything. It gives you tools, and teaches you about materials. Academic training is safe. It prepares you to be against." He moved with his American wife to the USA a few months after the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War. One of the first generation of American Expressionists, he knew artists such as De Kooning, Pollock, and Rothko. His works in the Segovia museum were constantly evolving, but maintained a delicate sense of balance. I liked his drawings best: their austerity was sensual and spiritual.
The Cathedral was very grand. Many beautiful chapels with impressive altarpieces and paintings. Most astounding was the Chapel of the Descent from the Cross. The painting at the top of the altarpiece showed Christ on the cross. The painting below it showed the dead Christ being brought down from the cross. Both paintings are by Francisco Camilo. Following this dramatic line downwards, one saw next the polychrome "Recumbent Christ" (by the Baroque sculptor Gregorio Fernández), lying with his lifelike wounds in a glass case. A single euro dropped into the meter brought the lights on to this visual theater.
At the Plaza Meyor, I had tapas in two different bars. In the second one, I saw this splendidly dressed older woman sitting by herself in a corner.
Nursing her beer
woman with a bib necklace—
late morning in Segovia
I walked to the castle but did not enter it. Retracing my steps, I stumbled on Mesón Don Jimeno, where I had a most delicious lunch of cochinillo asado (suckling pig). Two older ladies provided no-fuss and friendly service. The restaurant had a quaint family atmosphere. My best meal in Spain so far, I reckon.